Is there anything better to do on a hot summer day than head to a beach party? Even though you’re 60 or so miles from the ocean, that’s the feeling you get when you walk into Town Docks, the Common Man’s seasonal restaurant on the Meredith lakefront.

Atmosphere 18/20

Town Docks is next to Church Landing Inn and the Common Man’s Lakehouse Grill, but it’s an ocean away in terms of atmosphere. Inside, it’s informal in the extreme, reminiscent of a big family meal on grandma’s screen porch. But it’s outside that you really get the beach-party vibe. Umbrella-shaded picnic tables are arranged on a sandy faux beach. Lake Winnipesaukee is a few feet away on one side, and the bar, complete with tiki-style grass fringe, is on the other. If they could replace the pine trees with palms, the illusion would be complete.

Appetizers 15/20

Our Gourmet: The menu has a nice variety of appetizer options, ranging from mussels to Buffalo chicken tenders. But the day we visited, Coconut Shrimp was on special, both as an app and an entree. I chose the appetizer portion ($9.99) and received six or seven butterflied shrimp (I never remember to count), coated in a thin, slightly sweet coconut batter and fried until they were just golden. Some places do coconut shrimp that’s more like a shrimp hidden inside a coconut hushpuppy, but these were delicate and perfectly cooked. The sweet chili sauce served on the side reminded us of a thinned out pepper jelly; it was good, but too highoctane for such a light dish. 8/10

The Dining Companion: I opted to continue my search for New Hampshire’s best calamari. My serving ($7.99) included several clusters of tentacles in addition to the typical rings. It was lightly breaded and fried perfectly. On its own, the squid was tender and delicious, but it was served with the same sweet chili sauce as OG’s shrimp. I opted to enjoy the calamari sans the sauce, but because I have to judge the full experience, Town Docks’ calamari doesn’t beat the best (which, in our book so far, is served by Hooked in Manchester). 7/10

Entrees 17/20

OG: I decided on a lobster roll (market price this day was $15.99, with my substitution of onion rings for the standard french fries). I got a heaping mound of lobster meat, with a good proportion of recognizable chunks and very little filler. As lobster roll fillings go, this was pretty dry; with just a touch of mayonnaise to hold things together. To be honest, I might have liked a little more mayo, or maybe melted butter to pour over the top (hey, I’m on vacation!). 8/10

TDC: I chose the Docks Grill ($18.79), comprised of a large crabcake and skewer of bourbon-marinated sirloin tips. I and a lot of other people love crabcakes from the Common Man, and as usual, this was great! But with that said, I think the steak tips carried this meal. The bourbon sauce was light and complementary, and the meat was melt-inyour- mouth tender. The boiled red bliss potatoes, which I almost didn’t try, were buttery and cooked to that perfect almost-creamy state. 9/10

Menu 18/20

Seafood gets top billing at Town Docks, but it’s not just a fish joint. There are plenty of beef and chicken options, as well as salads, burgers and sandwiches. The drink menu is long and creative, with tropical-themed creations served in everything from 2-foot-tall souvenir pilsner glasses to hollowed-out watermelons.

All the rest 20/20

It seems as if there are almost as many Common Man restaurants in New Hampshire as there are McDonald’s, but both companies thrive because they do things right. With several properties in the Lakes Region, C-Man has done a great job of making each one unique. Town Docks is the one where you can feel comfortable showing up in swimsuits (but come on, put a shirt on!) and kicking your flip-flops off in the sand. Couple the setting with great food and service, andTown Docks is a sure bet for a fun summer feast.

Total 88/100