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Hooksett, home of high-rising flapjacks

One of my happiest childhood memories is watching my father make pancakes. I'm fairly certain that Donny relied upon Bisquick or some other convenience mix (like most men of his generation, he wasn't much of a cook, outside of Saturday morning pancakes and steaks on the grill), and it was the only instance that I can recall seeing our heavy, rectangular cast-iron griddle - so big that it straddled two burners - being put to use.

With my siblings and I seated at the table - and Mom, too, taking a rare break from kitchen duty - we'd watch Dad at the stove, easing batter onto that hot, spattering cooktop, and deftly wielding a spatula as he stacked thin, golden pancakes on a platter. They would disappear as quickly as he could make them.

During the intervening decades, I found myself following Dad's pancake example (OK, minus the prepackaged mix), at least in the batter department, where the operative words were thin, semi-lumpy and pourable.

That is until two years ago, when I encountered "The New Comfort Food" (Chronicle Books, 2011) and a different kind of pancake recipe.

Adapted from a classic New Hampshire diner - Robie's General Store in Hooksett - this time-tested formula has a crazy amount of leavening, which quickly turns the batter into a doughy, sticky, air bubble-filled mass. Pourable it's not, but this batter yields a high-rising, incredibly tender pancake.

Handling this batter requires some finesse. I quickly discovered that a heaping and semi-messy scoop of batter didn't spread as it hit the center of the pan, and who wants a too-small, too-tall pancake?

Not me. Using a narrow, flat-blade spatula, I nudged the batter outward - from its highest point in the center to the pancake's outer edge - creating a larger, and slightly slimmer pancake. Perfect.

Another difference: The vast majority of pancake recipes that I've encountered call for greasing the griddle or pan with cooking oil. That comes as no surprise; vegetable and canola oils have a higher smoke point than butter, and pancakes require a hot pan.

But this recipe requires butter, and plenty of it; let's face it, there's no such thing as a low-calorie pancake. However, using butter is tricky. A too-hot pan or griddle will burn the butter, and a not-hot-enough-cooking surface will make for a lousy pancake.

That's why monitoring the heat level is essential. I've found that ever-so-slightly reducing the heat after each batch seems to work, although, in the end, so what if the butter turns a little brown? The trade-off is beautifully browned pancakes with a delicately crisp, almost lacy exterior.

Dad would have loved them.

Buttermilk Flapjacks

Makes about 8 pancakes.

Note: "For the best results, you've got to take your time and cook the flapjacks one by one with plenty of butter in a hot skillet," writes James Oseland in "The New Comfort Food."

2 c. flour

2 tbsp. sugar

4 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. fine sea salt

12 tbsp. (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, divided, plus more

2 c. buttermilk

1 tsp. vanilla extract

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Maple syrup, for serving

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

Melt 4 tablespoons ({ stick) butter. In a medium bowl, whisk together melted butter, buttermilk, vanilla extract and eggs. Whisk buttermilk mixture into flour mixture, mixing as little as possible to make a thick (and lumpy) batter. Do not overmix; too much stirring will result in tough pancakes.

Heat a skillet or griddle over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon butter and heat until butter's foam subsides. Ladle in about 1/2 cup of batter and cook, turning once, until pancake is deep golden brown on both sides, about 4 to 5 minutes total. Repeat process with additional butter and remaining batter. Serve hot, topped with butter and maple syrup.

Nutrition information per each of 8: Calories: 325; Fat: g; Sodium: 776 mg; Carbohydrates: 31 g; Saturated fat: 12 g; Calcium: 223 mg; Protein: 7 g; Cholesterol: 95 mg; Dietary fiber: 1 g.

Diabetic exchanges per serving: 2 bread/starch, 4 fat.



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