GORDI’S FISH & STEAK HOUSE has served as an apres-ski hangout for Loon Mountain patrons for more than 30 years, offering a welcoming bar with free popcorn and a casual dining room comfortable for families.
The Lincoln restaurant was founded by couples Bob and Muffy Copenhavers and Gordi and Karen Eaton in 1986. The Copenhavers brought their restaurant know-how, the Eatons offered the cachet that comes from being veterans of Olympic ski teams, as told on Gordi’s website.
On a recent visit, Our Gourmet and his Loving Dining Companion were among a group of 12 including three girls under the age of 2. We were fresh from our ride on the Polar Express to the North Pole courtesy of the Hobo Railroad down the street.
If you’ve ever experienced the Polar Express — imagine waiting for your personal visit from Santa in a room packed with hundreds of little kids — you can imagine our joy afterward nestled in comfy chairs in the ski-themed bar. We arrived about 45 minutes before our reservation, so we helped ourselves to baskets of popcorn and enjoyed beverages while we waited for our table. Meanwhile we passed infants around and tried to keep a toddler amused. (Solution: multiple visits to the popcorn machine.)
Gordi’s was already familiar to some members of our party, especially the millennial snowboarders among us, and those among our group went to their faves when it was time to order. Our son-in-law’s go-to is the Chicken Parmesan ($14.99). The classic dish, served with linguini, is among the more value-priced entrees on the menu, which tops out with the Tomahawk Bone-in Ribeye ($49.99), the restaurant’s signature 34-ounce grilled steak.
The seafood menu includes a selection of fried, baked and broiled dishes that you would expect to find in a New England restaurant. The Fried Scallops ($23.99) were a hit with my stepson. Two members of our party were pleased with the Bourbon Marinated Sirloin Tips ($19.99), grilled and topped with sauteed onions, peppers and mushrooms and cooked medium.
OG’s Lovely Dining Companion chose the Filet Mignon ($27.99), an 8-ounce cut filet garnished with herb butter and perched atop a garlic crouton. We can vouch for its tenderness and flavor, having stolen a few bites. LDC’s entree was served with mashed potatoes and butternut squash.
Our Gourmet as well as his gourmet-in-training daughter-in-law revisited the funky menu choice we had both enjoyed the previous time we visited Gordi’s. Chaos Shrimp Sauté ($18.99) is one of the most eclectic items on the menu.
The dish features five shrimp sautéed with Brussels sprouts, Applewood smoked bacon, tomatoes and garlic, served over fried sweet potato cakes. Only on rare occasions does this OG knowingly choose something that features Brussels sprouts, a vegetable that needs special care to become, well, edible.
Chaos Shrimp Sauté hits all the notes you’re looking for when you want to experience a combination of flavors that creates a meal that is truly special. As much as we love a good steak or a platter of fresh seafood, enjoying a creation that likely took a chef several tries to perfect appeals to our sense of culinary adventure.
Our tryout list for next time includes the Belgian Style Mussels ($14.99), steamed in blue cheese, shallot and garlic broth, topped with french fries and served with garlic aioli for dipping. We’d also like to sink our teeth into one of those 34-ounce Tomahawk steaks — if we remember to skip the popcorn that night.