We weren’t expecting the dinner we were served one crisp evening at Sawbelly Brewing in Exeter.
Yes, brewpubs are known for dishing up hearty, rib-sticking fare. But Korean sticky ribs with crunchy kimchi, paired with crisped Brussels sprouts in spicy pepper jam?
And what about a menu that features “flights” of homemade pickles — from bread and butter to green tomatoes, honey mustard onions to sour pineapple, dilly beans to ginger carrots?
And then there’s the beer.
The poetic descriptions on the restaurant’s online menu got our attention, but the proof is in the pour.
Raised in a Southern Baptist household, I came late to drinking at 22, barely sipping Riunite on ice (nice) and the lightest of beers. Then one hot day I ordered a Michelob Dark, an exotic drink in 1980. It was a revelation.
Thus when presented with the dozen choices on tap, I gravitated to the Oktoberfest ($7), described as “a darker German Marzen lager with flavors of light toffee and fig, with a classic crisp finish.”
Marzen is said to be the beer served at the original Oktoberfest — Bavarian King Ludvig I’s 1810 wedding celebration in Munich.
Sawbelly’s version definitely was celebratory, with plenty of toasted malt notes and a lager’s clean finish.
My dining partner also went with a lager, Featherman’s Wild Ride ($7), billed as a “Dortmunder export with all the classic vibes.” This export was created in 1873 in Dortmunder in northern Germany to compete with pilsners.
The beer went well with our appetizer choices (suggested by our knowledgeable and approachable server) of Korean Sticky Ribs ($16) and crispy Brussels sprouts ($12).
The apple soy marinade and Gochujang barbecue glaze on the pork made us salivate, and the kimchi served alongside the ribs pulled together all the flavors.
Kimchi is a Korean side dish of salted and fermented vegetables, with plenty of spicy zing. It’s not surprising that a restaurant that specializes in pickling would be good at kimchi. As we savored the tender ribs, we asked for a little bit more of the kimchi, and quickly scarfed it up.
We had consulted the menu online and were a little surprised when we were handed the printed menu, which offered significantly different choices. Our server explained that the daily menu reflects the restaurant’s focus on seasonal and locally sourced offerings.
I ordered the Pork Schnitzel Sandwich ($15), dressed with whole-grain mustard aioli and fresh-apple cabbage slaw. As a person who doesn’t like fruit mixed with veggies, this was a leap. The slaw was scrumptious, just the right balance of sharp and sweet for the crunchy pork cutlet.
The restaurant’s “country fries” (think steak fries, but crispier) were a hearty accompaniment.
My partner in culinary crime, who has long ignored the chicken-and-waffles craze, surprised me by choosing the fried chicken and beer pancakes ($19), served with North Country Smokehouse bacon and maple syrup.
“It doesn’t hurt to put bacon and scallions on your pancakes,” he said, munching away.
He took one pancake and some of the chicken home and created a home version the next day with the artful use of a cast-iron skillet.
As we ate, we remarked on the restaurant’s fun decor (vintage photos of beautiful women sipping beer, bronze light fixtures, shades of teal and chocolate) and open kitchen. At the front door, you are offered the choice of a high-top table on the bar side of the establishment, or a booth and traditional seating in the quieter dining room.
The exterior is surrounded by patio dining, and we have seen it packed with people plenty of times. There is live music on the weekends.
Sawbelly, which opened in 2020 two months before the pandemic struck, has clearly developed a strong local following, and deservedly so. We will be back, perhaps for the Sunday brunch.